Drip edge discouraged

[GB]

Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

[Matt Whiting]

Post by GB
Hi,
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

I'm with the second roofer. If the roof structure is so "irregular"
that drip edge won't lay flat, then you've got a bigger problem than
just needing shingles.

Matt

[Bob Morrison]

In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
I'm with the second roofer. If the roof structure is so "irregular"
that drip edge won't lay flat, then you've got a bigger problem than
just needing shingles.

I second Matt's recommendation. The previous owner of my house did not
install drip edge and now I have water blowing back against the edge of
the sheathing. So, I'm going to figure out a way to retroactively install
the drip edge.

[DT]

If you take a look during the rain at a drip edge installed, you will quickly
see how much rain it sheds that would have contacted the wood and seeped in.
Put them under the builder's paper (or adhesive membrane) along the eaves
(where the gutter is), and over the paper along the gable edges.

[RUN construction]

Drip edge always if you have iregularties them it is recommended that you also fix or repair reroofing I mean really if you gonna fix it then you might as well fix it righ

[RicodJour]

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.

I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won't
lay right with or without the drip edge.

R

[Matt Whiting]

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about
roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to
the next roofer.

Matt

[Michael Bulatovich]

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about
roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to the
next roofer.

I've seen it done both ways. Without a drip edge the roofers tend to start
the first shingle overhanging a bit more. That starts to curl over time,
giving a sloppy appearance, esp. if no gutters. On the other hand, I've seen
galvanized speed-rusting ant the break of a drip. Not pretty.

[Astro]

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about
roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to
the next roofer.
Matt

Well, here's an option. I'm in the process of having some roofs redone
and my roofer told me the same thing - no need for the drip edge. He
said he's using ice and water shield that hangs over the edge so that
the drip edge would be extraneous.

Interestingly, in researching this, I saw conflicting information. One
article said install drip edge before the ice/water shield, the other
said, absolutely, it has to be installed after. hmm...

It does seem that logically one should use a drip edge. Wish we had
this discussion a week ago!

[M&S]

Post by Astro

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about
roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to
the next roofer.
Matt

Well, here's an option. I'm in the process of having some roofs redone
and my roofer told me the same thing - no need for the drip edge. He
said he's using ice and water shield that hangs over the edge so that
the drip edge would be extraneous.
Interestingly, in researching this, I saw conflicting information. One
article said install drip edge before the ice/water shield, the other
said, absolutely, it has to be installed after. hmm...
It does seem that logically one should use a drip edge. Wish we had
this discussion a week ago!

The fact is that, just as Rico said, drip edge performs a neccesary
function. I would say many more than a single function. We have all seen
homes with no drip edge and no problems but we have more often seen them
with no drip edge and the subsequent, predictable, problems. Many things
can affect the balance, the amount of shingle overhang, type of
underlayment, pitch, climate region, and other things can affect whether
problems will or will not occur.

What I find even more interesting is how do those who omit drip edge
expect to deal with the transition from fascia to the underside of the
roof. This is rarely a dead straight clean transition. The drip simply
crisps up the whole transition.

Ask any gutter installer what they have to say about overhangs and drip
edge and I would wager the vast majority will tell you they have far
more trouble with gutters on a roof with no drip edge than one with it.
It simply gets water off the fascia which is just what you want.

I am with Matt on this one, unless you have a personal relationship with
the roofer, if they are trying to cut the drip edge I would be wary of
what else they are willing to cut along the way.

Mark

[Matt Whiting]

Post by Astro

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about
roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to
the next roofer.
Matt

Well, here's an option. I'm in the process of having some roofs redone
and my roofer told me the same thing - no need for the drip edge. He
said he's using ice and water shield that hangs over the edge so that
the drip edge would be extraneous.
Interestingly, in researching this, I saw conflicting information. One
article said install drip edge before the ice/water shield, the other
said, absolutely, it has to be installed after. hmm...
It does seem that logically one should use a drip edge. Wish we had
this discussion a week ago!

Drip edge protects the edge of the sheathing/top of the fascia board as
well as helping to keep water from running under the edge of the
shingles. Ice & Water shield helps with the latter, but not with the
former ... unless he is wrapping the shield around the sheathing and
stapling it to the fascia!

Matt

[joe]

Exactl

[Malcolm]

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/construction/Drip-edge-discouraged-6787-.htm
Malcolm wrote:

I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm
interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more
expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as
"valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good
reputations in town.

Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea,
but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the
house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add
the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Malcolm

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding
installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it
because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer\'s
instructions the first roofer doesn\'t think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn\'t necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn\'t, so he put it in. Don\'t throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.
BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won\'t
lay right with or without the drip edge.
R

-------------------------------------

[PeterD]

Post by Malcolm

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding
installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it
because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer\'s
instructions the first roofer doesn\'t think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn\'t necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn\'t, so he put it in. Don\'t throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.
BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won\'t
lay right with or without the drip edge.
R

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/construction/Drip-edge-discouraged-6787-.htm
I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm
interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more
expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as
"valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good
reputations in town.
Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea,
but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the
house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add
the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Malcolm

Uh, separate the "valley iron" (what is that?) from the drip edge. Now
see where the expenses are. I don't think drip edge is what is $800, it
more likely is the valley treatment.

[jloomis]

The drip edge is a great idea, but the valley flashing may not be as
necessary since most roofers will weave a valley.
Since I cannot see the roof, I am not sure what type of valley we are
speaking about and some valleys require metal flashing.
I just finished my roof and used 16 square of roofing, and the flashing cost
was 880.00 I of course had 6 skylights, and edge flashing in the mix.
I like the edge flashing that goes out about 1 1/4" and returns back with a
drop over the facia of about 1". On the lower eaves I do the pitch bend and
on the facia running up the rake it is straight out and back.
I researched this, and the flashing helps keep the water from coming in at
the edges and keeps the plywood dry.

In a bid like this, I would consider the more "educated" bid that uses edge
metal since the contractor is looking at details. I would also ask he he
can "weave" the valleys.
just my 2 cents.
Oh, in some cases we do use copper flashing also....Which raises the price
considerably.
I also like to paint the galvanized flashing before installation.
john

"Malcolm" wrote in message news:6824e$4e0c1a9c$45499b77$***@news.flashnewsgroups.com...

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/construction/Drip-edge-discouraged-6787-.htm
Malcolm wrote:

I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm
interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more
expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as
"valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good
reputations in town.

Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea,
but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the
house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add
the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Malcolm

Post by RicodJour

Post by GB
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding
installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it
because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer\'s
instructions the first roofer doesn\'t think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn\'t necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn\'t, so he put it in. Don\'t throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.
BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won\'t
lay right with or without the drip edge.
R

-------------------------------------

[joe]

I wouldn’t pay anyone to work on my house that doesn’t know how all the parts were together. The first roofer obviously does not get to see what his work creates in the long term

[Dennis]

Drip edge's are not required by code (IRC), but the code does require that
asphalt shingles be installed per manufacturers instructions. All asphalt
shingle manufacturer's belong to and follow the guidelines of the Asphalt
Shingle Manufactures Association (ARMA); and in their "Residential Asphalt
Roofing Manual" they state that "the use of a drip edge is strongly
recommended". Hence, the first roofer is correct, it IS NOT actually
required, but, have drip edges installed even if it costs more.

The proper method is usually described on the shingle wrapper, but if not,
its installed directly to the deck along the eaves, and over the
underlayment on the rakes. Also carefully review the underlayment quoted. On
my last reroof I had them use the self-adhering type over the complete roof
and feel it's well worth the slight extra cost. (Even when the shingles lift
water will not get to the deck.)

Hi,
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern Virginia,
and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it is
not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause the
shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
GB

[Bill]

I was of the opinion that in different areas of the country, they do things
differently.
I have seen roofers put shingles on plywood, with no felt, nor drip edge.
I think it was the Carolinas or Virginia. It was 15 or 20 yeas ago.
I always thought Felt, and Drip edge would have been mandatory. Not to
mention valley metal too, even with a weave.
--

Hi,
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern Virginia,
and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it is
not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause the
shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
GB

[John Reddy]

The cost of drip edge can't be more than $1/linear foot installed.
What's the big deal?

There are plenty of good reasons to use it and none (that I can think
of) to omit it.

[Bill]

Used to be $1 / foot. Have you priced metal lately?
5 years ago a stick was 2, maybe 3 dollars. Now it is more like $10.
Guess it costs allot of freight to get it here from China.

[DT]

In article <b8WFh.462$***@bignews6.bellsouth.net>, ***@bellsouth.net
says...

Post by Bill
Used to be $1 / foot. Have you priced metal lately?
5 years ago a stick was 2, maybe 3 dollars. Now it is more like $10.

The standard 10' drip edge at Home Depot is $3.89 today.

[Bill]

Got mine from a roofing supply house. It was over $8 per stick. (3X3)
The stuff HD has is not the same as I get.
--

Post by DT
says...

Post by Bill
Used to be $1 / foot. Have you priced metal lately?
5 years ago a stick was 2, maybe 3 dollars. Now it is more like $10.

The standard 10' drip edge at Home Depot is $3.89 today.
--
Dennis

[Glenn]

Don't you think that silver plated is a little extreme?

Just basing that on the price of course.

Post by Bill
Got mine from a roofing supply house. It was over $8 per stick. (3X3)
The stuff HD has is not the same as I get.
--

[Bill]

Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?
--

Post by Glenn
Don't you think that silver plated is a little extreme?
Just basing that on the price of course.

Post by Bill
Got mine from a roofing supply house. It was over $8 per stick. (3X3)
The stuff HD has is not the same as I get.
--

[M&S]

Post by Bill
Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

Here here, tin foil at best. Buying material at Home Crapo and Howes and
then commenting on components of a quality roof install and the omition
of drip edge requires a good look in the mirror. A little over the top,
but using home center drip edge is a modest step at best above not using
it at all. It is the thinnest material, thinnest finish, and shortest
profile that could be considered worth installing in the first place.

Mark

[Bill]

Guess it all depends on the guarantee. You reputation precedes you.
What happens if you lay a ladder against the drip edge, and it bends?
I admit the price is ridiculous, but what isn't any more.
--

Post by M&S

Post by Bill
Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

Here here, tin foil at best. Buying material at Home Crapo and Howes and
then commenting on components of a quality roof install and the omition of
drip edge requires a good look in the mirror. A little over the top, but
using home center drip edge is a modest step at best above not using it at
all. It is the thinnest material, thinnest finish, and shortest profile
that could be considered worth installing in the first place.
Mark

[csnyder]

replying to M&S, csnyder wrote:
Around here the home centers and the roofing suppliers and the pro lumber
yards carry the exact same stuff - only 2 suppliers. One month home Despot
carries one, the next month it could be the other. Same with Lowes, RoofMart
and the pro yards.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/construction/drip-edge-discouraged-6787-.htm

[John Reddy]

Post by Bill
Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

50 year drip edge? Great. Now tell me where I can find 50 year
shingles to go with it.

[RicodJour]

Post by John Reddy

Post by Bill
Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

50 year drip edge? Great. Now tell me where I can find 50 year
shingles to go with it.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=50+year+warranty+roof+shingles

There are a fair number of manufacturers, too.

R

[Bill]

On my roof. 50 year archs.
--

Post by John Reddy

Post by Bill
Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

50 year drip edge? Great. Now tell me where I can find 50 year
shingles to go with it.

[Matt Whiting]

Post by Bill
On my roof. 50 year archs.

But they haven't been around yet for 50 years so I personally take these
guarantees with a grain of salt. I'll believe it when I see it. My
30 year shingles are only 6 years old and I'll be very surprised if they
last 24 more years.


Matt

[RicodJour]

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by Bill
On my roof. 50 year archs.

But they haven't been around yet for 50 years so I personally take these
guarantees with a grain of salt. I'll believe it when I see it. My
30 year shingles are only 6 years old and I'll be very surprised if they
last 24 more years.

Not sure if I'm willing to wait another quarter century for your full
report, but good luck with it anyway!

The guarantee doesn't mean that there _won't_ be problems. It means
if and when there are problems you probably won't see jack. Subtle
difference. ;)

R

[Matt Whiting]

Post by RicodJour

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by Bill
On my roof. 50 year archs.

But they haven't been around yet for 50 years so I personally take these
guarantees with a grain of salt. I'll believe it when I see it. My
30 year shingles are only 6 years old and I'll be very surprised if they
last 24 more years.

Not sure if I'm willing to wait another quarter century for your full
report, but good luck with it anyway!
The guarantee doesn't mean that there _won't_ be problems. It means
if and when there are problems you probably won't see jack. Subtle
difference. ;)

However, it does call into question paying 3X more for "50 year" drip
edge. :-)

Matt

[Bob Morrison]

In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
However, it does call into question paying 3X more for "50 year" drip
edge. :-)

I suppose, but you could put (2) 25-year roofs on with the same 50-year
drip edge.

[Matt Whiting]

Post by Bob Morrison
In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
However, it does call into question paying 3X more for "50 year" drip
edge. :-)

I suppose, but you could put (2) 25-year roofs on with the same 50-year
drip edge.

True. However, if the drip edge is installed correctly it should be
over top of the roofing felt along the gables and thus should be removed
for a proper refelting anyway. I know, I know, many folks just slap a
new layer of shingles on over the existing, but I never liked that practice.

Matt

[Bob Morrison]

In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
True. However, if the drip edge is installed correctly it should be
over top of the roofing felt along the gables and thus should be removed
for a proper refelting anyway. I know, I know, many folks just slap a
new layer of shingles on over the existing, but I never liked that practice.

Also true, but it is common and can save substantial amounts of money when
you figure in the demo and haul cost of removing an existing roof.

BTW, I always design my roof systems to allow for two layers of asphalt
shingles.

[RicodJour]

Post by Bob Morrison
In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
True. However, if the drip edge is installed correctly it should be
over top of the roofing felt along the gables and thus should be removed
for a proper refelting anyway. I know, I know, many folks just slap a
new layer of shingles on over the existing, but I never liked that practice.

Also true, but it is common and can save substantial amounts of money when
you figure in the demo and haul cost of removing an existing roof.

Ripping off instead of reroofing also loses that valuable R-0.1
insulation from the old layer of shingles.

Post by Bob Morrison
BTW, I always design my roof systems to allow for two layers of asphalt
shingles.

Asphalt? You're showing your age, Bob. Or, maybe the shingles
are. ;)

My favorite was the house with 2x4 rafters that had cedar shingles and
two layers of asphalt shingles - well, maybe the top one was
fiberglass.

You can generally tell the reroofed-too-many-times-with-inadequate-
framing houses by the sway-backed ridge. That's usually the first
place it shows up.

R

[Bob Morrison]

In a previous post RicodJour wrote...

Post by RicodJour
My favorite was the house with 2x4 rafters that had cedar shingles and
two layers of asphalt shingles - well, maybe the top one was
fiberglass.
You can generally tell the reroofed-too-many-times-with-inadequate-
framing houses by the sway-backed ridge. That's usually the first
place it shows up.

That was my house in Seattle before we re-roofed as requirement of the
sale. For some reason the banks in Seattle seem to make this a standard
practice before granting loans.

[RicodJour]

Post by Bob Morrison
In a previous post RicodJour wrote...

Post by RicodJour
My favorite was the house with 2x4 rafters that had cedar shingles and
two layers of asphalt shingles - well, maybe the top one was
fiberglass.
You can generally tell the reroofed-too-many-times-with-inadequate-
framing houses by the sway-backed ridge. That's usually the first
place it shows up.

That was my house in Seattle before we re-roofed as requirement of the
sale. For some reason the banks in Seattle seem to make this a standard
practice before granting loans.

Never heard that one before. Makes a certain kind of sense - for the
bank!

R

[Michael Bulatovich]

Post by RicodJour

Post by Bob Morrison
In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...

Post by Matt Whiting
True. However, if the drip edge is installed correctly it should be
over top of the roofing felt along the gables and thus should be removed
for a proper refelting anyway. I know, I know, many folks just slap a
new layer of shingles on over the existing, but I never liked that practice.

Also true, but it is common and can save substantial amounts of money when
you figure in the demo and haul cost of removing an existing roof.

Ripping off instead of reroofing also loses that valuable R-0.1
insulation from the old layer of shingles.

Post by Bob Morrison
BTW, I always design my roof systems to allow for two layers of asphalt
shingles.

Asphalt? You're showing your age, Bob. Or, maybe the shingles
are. ;)
My favorite was the house with 2x4 rafters that had cedar shingles and
two layers of asphalt shingles - well, maybe the top one was
fiberglass.

That was my house. It lasted for twelve years after I bought it.

[John Reddy]

Post by Matt Whiting

Post by Bill
On my roof. 50 year archs.

But they haven't been around yet for 50 years so I personally take these
guarantees with a grain of salt. I'll believe it when I see it. My
30 year shingles are only 6 years old and I'll be very surprised if they
last 24 more years.
Matt

Exactly. The warranties are pro-rated such that you aren't going to
get much if a 30 year shingle lasts 20 years. Also, the chances of the
shingle manufacturer being around in 50 years are probably the same as
my being around, pretty slim.

[Matt Whiting]

Post by Bill
I was of the opinion that in different areas of the country, they do things
differently.
I have seen roofers put shingles on plywood, with no felt, nor drip edge.
I think it was the Carolinas or Virginia. It was 15 or 20 yeas ago.
I always thought Felt, and Drip edge would have been mandatory. Not to
mention valley metal too, even with a weave.

The level of practice and quality varies from region to region, but what
is correct remains the same.

Matt

[Jack]

Post by GB
Hi,
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
GB

Here in Connecticut we are required to install drip edge.

Jack

[RicodJour]

Post by Jack

Post by GB
Hi,
I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
drip edge.
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
GB

Here in Connecticut we are required to install drip edge.

NY, too. Specifically section �1507.2.9.3

Unfortunately, all too often, reroofing and remodeling gets treated
like bastard sons of new construction and a lot of stuff falls through
the cracks. A roofer worth his salt would comply with code even if he
thought it was a waste of time. It's not like he's paying for it and
he can use the fact that he's complying with code as a sales tool.

R

[joe]

The roofer who does not install drip edge Will eventually lose their good rating. On the gable ends it is absolutely necessary. Code requires it should be over the gutters as well. Anyone who says that drip edge is a necessary has obviously never repaired rotten facia board. Water can wick backwards and under the shingle, Especially on the gable ends! The shingles should have an inch and a quarter overhang.