I'm not an "expert" but have used many, many driver bits and have been looking for P2R bits locally but unable to find any. Apparently a big box store 14 miles away has a few but driving fuel would triple the cost.
I'm doing some sheet rock installation using drywall screws. I knew regular P2 bits DO NOT WORK WELL with drywall screws as if there is much resistance to driving them, the bit will cam out, even applying a lot of force to the driver and keeping it square with the screw. I gave up on P2R's and bought a 5-pack of "Big Yellow's" with depth control collar, specifically for driving drywall screws and theoretically controlling the depth so that the paper skin is not 'ruptured', or broken thru by the outer edge of the screw head. If this occurs, you have essentially lost all holding power---drive another screw next to it.
I looked at the driver bits inside the collars as best I could see and they looked quite "pointed" for Philips driver bits so I didn't think they were P2R's, but figured I'd try them. As soon as the screw head was near the paper and then barely making contact with it, the driver would cam out of the screw head. Drywall screws seem to be made of fairly decent steel considering where they are made and I discovered they pretty much trashed the gripping power of the driver bit, even with minimal cam out. I was very disappointed. I believe if the bit inside the collar were a P2R (Reduced) bit rather than a regular P2 bit, it would work much better. The "Big Red" power tool company's comparable item looked just about identical so I figured it was a toss up.
I only had one older, rather beat up P2R bit available but I switched to it, and along with it used some of my "screw grabbing" valve grinding compound lightly on the bit. It worked fantastic and I had no problem controlling the depth of the driven screw using an inexpensive cordless drill from a large importer of made-in-China tools.
Differences between P2 and P2R driver bits as far as I can deduce are:
P2 - Seems to be slightly more pointed, i.e., a narrower angle on the 4 blades, plus more pointed and perhaps longer such that it may 'bottom' in the screw head slightly early, thus reducing the blade-into-screw-head-grooves slightly?
P2R bits seem truncated, or shortened slightly at their tips (leaving a much more blunt, squared-off point) such that they don't seem to 'bottom' into the screw head. Therefore, more of the blades, which seem to be cut at a slightly wider angle, make contact with the matching grooves cut into the screw head for that purpose. My experience is that they grip drywall screws much better and are therefore much less likely to cam out (slip in the screw head which bungys up both the screw head and typically the driver bit also), particularly when driving screws into old, hardened Doug Fir studs and joists. I still prefer to touch a dab of abrasive compound to the bit about every 5 screws for insurance. A product called Screw Grab used to be available for that purpose but I can't find it anymore, so just bought a small tube of valve lapping compound which seems to work just great. Main thing is keep the driver straight in line with the screw
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