Drywall tapered edge should be on inside or outside corner?

[ississauga]

I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

[Joseph Meehan]

I would tend to choose the tapered end to the outside.
--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Post by ississauga
I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

[John W. Wells]

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:13:56 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"

Post by Joseph Meehan
I would tend to choose the tapered end to the outside.

Why? The metal outside corner edging he's installing protrudes beyond
the planes of the intersecting walls. So no taper of the board is
necessary there--running the knife along that metal edge and each wall
gives an easy and automatic feathering the width of the knife!

And tapers on an inside corner will help to 'bury' the tape, no?

--JWW

Post by Joseph Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

And kindly explain your Irish math--not being Irish I just don't get
it!

['nuther Bob]

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 20:27:05 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"

It can be done either way, but I find that It seems to work better with
the square edge in the corner. I get better (flatter) outside corners and
the inside corners don't show as much so other than structural problems I
would rather deal with the non-taper there.

I like the tapers on the outside too. That lets me get a mostly square
corner with little odd filling there. When it's time to do the
baseboard molding, chair rail, etc it fits much better. The un-square
inside corner is much easier less of an issue.

Bob

[Rico dJour]

Post by ississauga
I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

It's not critical either way. A tapered edge will allow an inside corner to be
a true 90 (assuming your framing is 90 degrees) after it's taped. The taped
thickness at the inside corner should be very thin anyway, so it wouldn't
really matter except in rare circumstances.

A tapered edge at the outside corner allows the metal corner to be perfectly in
line with the wall. This is also rarely necessary.

More to the point, why are your tapered edges vertical? In most cases
applications the boards are run horizontally - they're stronger that way.
Again, it's not critical, I'm just wondering why you're running it vertically.

R

[Michael Shields]

I am planning on drywalling my basement and the ceiling ht is 8'-6". How
would you drywall that running seams horizontal?

54" wide drywall is available, for exactly this purpose.

[jim]

Post by ississauga
I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

make sure you use enough mud when doing corners that is the major cause
of failure.. people think that it it the tape that stops the cracks,
buts it is the lack of mud behind the tape that causes the cracks....

[b***@nospam.tnx]

I am planning on drywalling my basement and the ceiling ht is 8'-6". How
would you drywall that running seams horizontal?

Use one 48 inch and one 54 inch board of whatever length ....

Ken

[v]

I am planning on drywalling my basement and the ceiling ht is 8'-6". How
would you drywall that running seams horizontal?

I've seen it done with a little strip half way up, taped as one wide
joint. But I didn't like what I saw. (I didn't do it.)
-v.

[Calvin Henry-Cotnam]

I am planning on drywalling my basement and the ceiling ht is 8'-6". How
would you drywall that running seams horizontal?

Best way (but with some waste) is to get 4x10 sheets and trim them to the
right height then install them vertically.

If you do go with hanging vertically, you can get 4x9 sheets which would
have less waste.

We have an ICF foundation (insulated concrete form) with 9' high walls
and must cover with drywall, so I'm thinking about going vertical with
9' sheets for the basement.

[Nospam9212]

On 7/29/03 3:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ***@ica.net (Calvin
Henry-Cotnam) wrote...

Post by Calvin Henry-Cotnam
We have an ICF foundation (insulated concrete form) with 9' high walls
and must cover with drywall, so I'm thinking about going vertical with
9' sheets for the basement.

Be aware that standing sheets up usually results in more linear feet of
taping...hence more work and more possibilities for trouble spots (cracks,
loose tape, air under tape, etc that rookie tapers experience). It also causes
more waste.

Laying the sheet horizontally will allow better layout, reduce the linear feet
of joint, reduce flaws related to stress areas, use less material and get the
job done faster.

12x9 standing sheets - minimum of two joints (may need 3 depending on 16"
framing) 9 foot each... 18 linear feet of flat joint, minimum.

12x9 laying sheets - 1 joint, 12 linear feet of flat joint.

(hint: use 54" vs 48" wallboard)


-= Francis Yarra =-
fyarraATjunoDOTcom
http://members.aol.com/fyarra001/ads - My drywall website
http://members.aol.com/fyarra001 - My C64 website
http://members.aol.com/prsnl99 - My personal website

[Matthew S. Whiting]

Post by Nospam9212
Henry-Cotnam) wrote...

Post by Calvin Henry-Cotnam
We have an ICF foundation (insulated concrete form) with 9' high walls
and must cover with drywall, so I'm thinking about going vertical with
9' sheets for the basement.

Be aware that standing sheets up usually results in more linear feet of
taping...hence more work and more possibilities for trouble spots (cracks,
loose tape, air under tape, etc that rookie tapers experience). It also causes
more waste.
Laying the sheet horizontally will allow better layout, reduce the linear feet
of joint, reduce flaws related to stress areas, use less material and get the
job done faster.
12x9 standing sheets - minimum of two joints (may need 3 depending on 16"
framing) 9 foot each... 18 linear feet of flat joint, minimum.
12x9 laying sheets - 1 joint, 12 linear feet of flat joint.
(hint: use 54" vs 48" wallboard)

If you use sheets such that they run the full length of every wall, then
I agree with everything you said. If you have to butt the ends of
horizontal sheets because of very long walls (I know you can get very
long lengths custom ordered, but not everyone can easily handle 24'
sheets!), then I prefer vertical. All of the joints are on a tapered
edge. I also like the idea of having all joints on a stud. If you run
horizontal you either have unsupported joints between studs or you need
to take the extry time to insert 2x4 blocking at the joint height. This
probably just about offsets the time saved by the slightly shorter joint
length.

Matt

[TANDEMMAG]

why would you not run them horizontal? First of all running horizontally makes
for a stronger wall, I think. It also makes for fewer joints to tape and those
that you do have are longer and easier to deal with.
***@aol.com

[jeffc]

Post by ississauga
I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

Normally, tapered edges on corners don't help you as much as they help in
the middle of the wall. You only get tapered edges on corners if you hang
the drywall vertically. In most applications, it's better to hang
horizontally. It usually reduces the overall total length of joints you
must seam.

[Joseph Meehan]

You are correct generally. You also reminded me of one suggestion I
should have made. Don't mix tapered and square edges on the same side of
the same corner.
--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Post by jeffc

Post by ississauga
I am hanging drywall and putting metal corner beads on outside corners
and paper ones on the inside ones. Since its usually not possible to
have tapered sides on both types of corners, which type of corners
should have tapered edges? or is there some mix?

Normally, tapered edges on corners don't help you as much as they help in
the middle of the wall. You only get tapered edges on corners if you hang
the drywall vertically. In most applications, it's better to hang
horizontally. It usually reduces the overall total length of joints you
must seam.

[jeffc]

I am planning on drywalling my basement and the ceiling ht is 8'-6". How
would you drywall that running seams horizontal?

They make 4 1/2' wide drywall for that purpose (normally, for 9' ceilings).

[Lyle B. Harwood]

In article <***@mb-m03.aol.com>, Nospam9212
<***@aol.commune> wrote:

€ >On smooth wall, vertical joints want to fall between studs, on a backer
€ >strip. This facilitates a much smoother finish for the same money.
€
€ Vertical joints included more material, more waste, more linear feet
€ of taping, sanding, etc.. therefore.. more cost. Ask me to stand up
€ sheets and you will get an slightly elevated bid.

I should have said "vertical butt joints".

You're going to have vertical joints, anyway you run drywall.

We run the sheets horizontally, with the butt joints falling between
studs.

Faster, cheaper, and smoother.

[Frank]

Lyle, get lost. Stop acting like you know anything.

? >On smooth wall, vertical joints want to fall between studs, on a backer
? >strip. This facilitates a much smoother finish for the same money.
?
? Vertical joints included more material, more waste, more linear feet
? of taping, sanding, etc.. therefore.. more cost. Ask me to stand up
? sheets and you will get an slightly elevated bid.
I should have said "vertical butt joints".
You're going to have vertical joints, anyway you run drywall.
We run the sheets horizontally, with the butt joints falling between
studs.
Faster, cheaper, and smoother.
--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
[phone] www.phoenixhomesinc.com